Having started to learn to lead climb, I feel that the real way people climb needs to be highlighted. So here is how I climb:
1) any part of the body can be used when lead climbing.
This includes knees, elbows, shoulders, backs, chins, head, hips. Hips are especially good for hip jamming
2) Hip jamming.
Wedging hips into small gaps so your hands and feet are free is a good way to have a rest. I managed it when at Black Ians. I wasn’t really resting, but it was a nice way to work out where my next move was going to be.
3) topping out is never dignified
Imagine a small child climbing out of a swimming pool, and then translate that into climbing over a ledge and you get a good idea of what I look like. ie, elbows over the top, a knee up and then roll away from the edge, or literally dragging myself over the edge.
4) Once at the top, having a rest is ok
Once you’ve made yourself safe at the top, a lie down due to total brain meltdown is fine. 10 minutes is usually enough time. Any form of tim tams/natural confectionary sweets/food in general can help overcome this, hugs are also good.
5) Having a rest halfway up on a ledge is equally as good
6) Talking to yourself is how to do it
Along with other strange noises/screaming, talking to yourself is fine, as long as the person belaying knows that you’re ok. Complaining and wanting to die is also perfectly acceptable
7) Bruises are part of the package.
If you do not look like you have been attacked by the mosquito bruise monster, you obvs haven’t been climbing hard enough.
the day after damage.
8 ) Lunch and snacking are necessary parts of the day.
Although most climbing gets done before lunch, it is necessary to stop and eat, as it allows time for your brain to sort itself out.
9) Gear placement is essential to get right.
But really difficult to master, and guaranteed you will have used the bit of gear you really want further down the climb.
10) Lollies, especially jelly snakes, fit well in pockets for a ‘I just made it to the top without dying’ reward.
Just make sure that the pocket is buttoned up, as snakes lost in combat is wasteful.
11) The downclimb is far scarier.
You aren’t attached to a rope, and the route isn’t as detailed in the guidebook as the ascent.
12) Falling is scary, and feels far worse than what actually happened.
In reality, I fell about half a metre, I thought I was a gonner.
13) Helmets are useful.
Especially for rock hugging and headbutting protection.
14) Confidence is easy to have on the ground.
Routes look easy when you’re looking up at them.
15) Anything is possible when it comes to moves.
It may not be the easiest or most obvious move, but it works! Even if your knee was level with your shoulder.
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